Cosytoes Heating Cable Installation Instructions
Electrical Installation.
We strongly recommend that all electrical work is carried out by a qualified Electrician and must conform to current I.E.E. wiring regulations. The heating system should be installed in conjunction with a Cosytoes® Timerstat control and be connected via a R.C.D. (Residual Current Device) protected circuit.
Technical Information.
The Cosytoes® under floor twin core heating cable has been designed with triple insulation, including double high performance Teflon insulation, around the heater wires and metal braided earth sheathing. It has been rigorously tested and surpasses
all European Standards. The cable has an output of 10 watts per linear metre and therefore complies with industry guidelines for safe use on timber as well as solid sub- floors. It should only be installed under ceramic, quarry or natural stone tiles. For use under other surfaces, please call the technical help line to discuss your requirements. The heaters consist of fixed lengths of twin core heating cable with an end termination at one end and 4m of power supply cable at the other end. The power supply cable is for connection to the combined timer/thermostat control unit. The heater cables have a fixed resistive length and must not, therefore, be shortened. There are 6 kits available, which can be used singly or in combination to accommodate any floor area.
Controls.
16 amp combined timer/thermostat unit (Timerstat)(sold individually). Note. A 16amp Timerstat unit may be used to control a maximum of 3600 watts.
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| A 160 |
16 |
0.70 |
328 |
160-120 |
1.0-1.4 |
| B 240 |
24 |
1.04 |
221 |
160-120 |
1.5-2.0 |
| C 320 |
32 |
1.39 |
165 |
160-120 |
2.0-2.7 |
| D 480 |
48 |
2.08 |
110 |
160-120 |
3.0-4.0 |
| E 640 |
64 |
2.78 |
83 |
160-120 |
4.0-5.4 |
| F 800 |
80 |
3.48 |
66 |
160-120 |
5.0-6.7 |
Preparing the electrical supply.
We recommend that this work be carried out prior to preparing the sub-floor and laying the heating cable. This work should be carried out by a qualified Electrician and comply with current I.E.E. regulations. Having decided on the position for the control, ideally on an inside wall within the room to be heated. Fit a deep back-box to accommodate the timerstat. On bathroom installations, the regulations require that the controls must not be sited within the bathroom and the timerstat should, therefore, be fitted on the outside of an internal wall as near to the under floor heating as possible. If more than 2 heaters are to be installed, a junction box will be required to connect up the heaters in parallel as the connections on the timerstat are too small a diameter for more cables. Run an RCD protected mains supply via a fused isolator switch taking into account the total load requirements. A maximum of 4.8kw of heating can be connected to a 30milliamp R.C.D. (Please note that the system guarantee is only valid when connected to a correctly rated R.C.D. protected circuit). All wiring should be chased into the wall and protected by either conduit or plastic trunking.
Preparing the sub-floor.
The most important consideration when installing a tiled floor, whether it is to be heated or not, is the preparation of the sub-floor prior to tiling. It is essential that it is sound and level and will support the weight without movement or deflection. The following recommendations are a general guide only and you should seek further advice from the Tiler and the tile and adhesive manufacturer.
Timber Floors.
The existing floorboards must first be securely fixed and level. This should then be over boarded with either a suitable tile backer board or 18mm W.B.P. plywood. The back and edges of the plywood should be sealed before laying and then, with plated screws, fixed to the floor joists at 200mm centres, plus additional fixings at the board edges If using a tile backer board, this should be installed following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Solid Floors.
Concrete floors should be completely dry, which, with newly laid concrete, can take many weeks to fully cure and dry. Remove all traces of old floor coverings and adhesive and ensure that the surface is smooth and level. Although the heating cable can be laid directly onto a sound, dry concrete floor, we recommend the use of insulated tile backer board for improved performance and efficiency of the heating system. For example, the worst case scenario, is to fit an under floor heating system to a ground level non-insulated concrete slab. Unless the requisite amount of insulation is included, the heater will try to heat up planet earth as well as the floor surface! To a much lesser degree, fitting an under floor heating system to a properly insulated concrete floor as per current building regulations, means the heater will need to bring the floor mass to the required temperature. The heat up time will be much slower, as will the cool down period but allowances can be made with the Timerstat. On some older properties asphalt or bitumastic compounds were used as a damp-proof membrane. As the heat from the cable may affect the floor membrane, it would be advisable to fit an insulated tile backer board before fitting the heating system.
Priming the sub-floor.
Concrete, sand and cement screeds and floors that have been over-boarded with plywood, should now be primed using the Cosytoes® primer supplied with the kit. With the surface dry and dust free, apply the primer evenly to the area to be heated, using the roller provided. Follow the instructions on the primer and ensure adequate ventilation. The primed floor should be protected if there is to be a delay fitting the heating cable.
Planning and laying the heating cable.
Once the primed floor is completely dry, you can plan and mark out the layout of the heater cable. Having already calculated the floor area and chosen the cable size, use the following table to work out your cable spacing. Remember that areas under fixed objects should not be heated and thought should be given to the final fixing of kitchen units and sanitary ware etc., to avoid damage to the heater cable.
Cable spacing and heater output.
Adjusting the space between the cable runs will vary the output of the heating cable per square metre. I.E. 83mm will give an output of 120 watts per square metre, 70mm gives 145 watts/sq.m and 60mm gives 167 watts/sq.m. Note these are the preferred outputs and spacings, but on no account should the cable be laid with spacings less than 50mm which would give an output of 200 watts per square metre.
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| A160 |
16 |
1.33 |
1.30 |
1.28 |
1.26 |
1.23 |
1.20 |
1.15 |
1.10 |
1.05 |
1.00 |
| B240 |
24 |
2.00 |
1.95 |
1.90 |
1.85 |
1.80 |
1.75 |
1.69 |
1.63 |
1.57 |
1.50 |
| C320 |
32 |
2.66 |
2.59 |
2.52 |
2.46 |
2.38 |
2.30 |
2.23 |
2.15 |
2.08 |
2.00 |
| D480 |
48 |
4.00 |
3.85 |
3.75 |
3.64 |
3.55 |
3.45 |
3.34 |
3.23 |
3.12 |
3.00 |
| E640 |
64 |
5.33 |
5.20 |
5.06 |
4.92 |
4.76 |
4.60 |
4.45 |
4.30 |
4.15 |
4.00 |
| F800 |
80 |
6.66 |
6.48 |
6.31 |
6.13 |
5.94 |
5.75 |
5.57 |
5.38 |
5.19 |
5.00 |
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120 |
125 |
129 |
133 |
138 |
145 |
148 |
154 |
160 |
167 |
For Example: - your heated area* is 4.86 square metres and the product is an E/640. From the table 4.86 is between 72.5mm and closer to 75mm, say, 74mm. *(The heated area is the total floor area minus fixed objects and 100mm-perimeter strip. Please refer to brochure.). Note: - the dimensions shown in the chart are approximate and may change slightly due to the configuration of the room and the way that the cable is laid. Any surplus cable is run around the perimeter.
Marking the layout.
Having decided on the required spacing, using a marker pen, mark a perimeter line 150mm in from the edge of the room and any fixed objects. Then starting at the closest corner of the room, adjacent to the timerstat, (the starting point), mark out the spacing intervals for the heater cable. Endeavour to keep all spacing as uniform as possible.
Laying the heating cable.
Once you have completed marking the floor, the heating cable can now be laid out. Gently unwind the power supply cable from the cable reel until the joint with the heating cable is reached, this should then be taped to the floor at the start point using the adhesive tape supplied. At this point it is a good idea to check the electrical resistance of the cable, so as to ensure that there is a circuit, in the unlikely event that there is 
a fault. The reading should be approximately similar to that on the ratings label on the reel, or as shown in the chart on page 2 Now lay the cable in parallel lines, back and forth across the floor area, following the spacing marks and fixing it lightly at intervals with short pieces of adhesive tape. Continue to the end of the cable and adjust cable if necessary. Any excess cable can be run along the centre of the perimeter space ensuring that equal spacing is maintained between cable runs. Ensure that the heating cables are never allowed to touch or cross, are not twisted, knotted, kinked or coiled and are not shortened or modified in any way. Also the heating cable should not be laid up stairways or wall areas. Please contact the technical help line if you need assistance. When the layout has been completed and any adjustments made, the entire length of cable should now be taped to the floor to provide protection during tiling. Ensure that it is straight and in full contact with the floor and by running your thumb and forefinger along the tape either side of the cable, remove any air gaps. Now remove any debris and unless the floor is to be tiled immediately, it should be covered to protect the heating cable.
Installing the timerstat and floor probe.
This work should be carried out by a qualified electrician and comply with current IEE wiring regulations. Full instructions for installing the timerstat and floor probe are included in their packaging.
Test the heaters
Before completing the electrical installation, it is advisable to check that the heater is working correctly. This can be done by temporarily wiring the heater cable to a 13amp 3-pin plug. Connect the blue and black wires to the live and neutral terminals of the plug, they are not polarised so either can be used as positive/live, although normal practice is to make blue positive and black negative. The braided earth screen is connected to the earth terminal; the plug should be fitted with a 5amp fuse.
This can then be connected to an extension lead or convenient 13amp socket. After approximately 10 minutes the heater cable should be warm to the touch. If more than one heater is being installed, repeat the test with each heater. The heater should not be left connected for more than 15-20 minutes during this test. If all is satisfactory, the timerstat and floor probe should now be installed, following the instructions supplied.
Install the temperature probe
The Temperature Probe should be installed centrally between two rows of heater cable, with its tip approximately 300mm from the wall and should be taped in position as the heating cable. Do not allow the probe wire to cross the heater cable at any point If necessary the probe wire can be extended using cable of a similar specification. The probe and power supply cables can now be connected to the timerstat as per the instructions; a maximum of two heaters can be connected directly. If installing multiple heaters they should be wired via a junction box as previously described.
Note: Multiple heaters must only be connected in parallel - i.e. blue wire to blue wire and black wire to black wire and should never be wired in series to the timerstat or junction box. The cables are of a co-axial construction and therefore have a braided earth screen running all the way through. This is a safety feature and the earth screens must be linked together and connected to the appropriate earthing point. A single 16amp timerstat may be used to control a maximum of 3600 watts of heater load. The timerstat can now be finally connected to the previously prepared RCD protected supply and the installation completed. Always ensure that the power supply is isolated during this work. At this point and prior to tiling, it is advisable to do a sketch of the floor area, showing the position of the heating cable(s) and noting the resistance readings for the cable(s). This should be left with the homeowner for future reference.
Tile and Grout
Only use a flexible tile adhesive and grout that is suitable for use with under floor heating systems, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Having ensured that the heating cable is firmly taped down, you should tile as normal, making sure that the tiling covers the whole area of heating cable. Care should be taken not to disturb or damage the heating cable during tiling, if possible cut and trim the tiles in a separate area. Ideally, using a plastic trowel spread the adhesive in straight lines, following the run of the cable. Ensure sufficient thickness of adhesive to completely cover the heating cable and to allow the tiles to be fully bedded down, without the possibility of any air gaps underneath. If any tiles need to be lifted for adjustment, care should be taken not to damage the heater cable. Grout the floor as soon as possible after tiling, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Note: - The tile adhesive should be allowed to fully cure, before turning on the heater(s), normally a minimum of 7 days. Finally set the timerstat to the desired daily program as per the instructions.
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